Snow and I got going early again, happy to be moving around 0700. Kicking off the day with another heavy climb which would take us a couple of hours. I had a little trouble with finding my energy, but steadily coursed my way up. When I finally arrived to what I knew would be the high point of today’s stretch, Snow was already there waiting for me. And he had some news; another fire-closure.
The suggested re-route would first take us 10 miles off trail, into a tiny community called Holden Village. From there onward, there were 2 options. Either take a bus, and then a ferry into Stehekin, or hike another alternate, which would lead to a road somewhere between the accessible PCT and Stehekin. 
The chunk of the PCT that we would bypass was around 18 miles. The hike into Holden Village takes approximately 10 miles. So if I decided to get the bus and ferry from there, I would end up hiking less miles on this stretch than I would have, if the PCT had been open. Until now, upon encountering fire-closures and re-routes, I’ve always compensated the missing miles of the PCT with miles of the alternates.
Why stop now?
If I’d take the suggested alternate from Holden Village onward, I would add another 17 miles to this stretch. I’d hike about 9 miles more than the official PCT route. A significant compensation.
I decided to go for it.
Before we got to Holden Village though, there were another 10 miles downhill to get out of the way. Or so we thought. Pretty soon after leaving the PCT, the trail started to ascend up steep and rocky trail, which messed with both Snow-white’s and my mindset; we thought we’d be done with the strenuous hiking for the day… It took us about another hour of stumbling up pretty gnarly trail along the rocky slopes, before we finally hiked over the crest, where we saw a pretty valley appear in front of us.
A pristine glacial lake, filled by streams from the jagged and snowy summits made a vibrant contrast with its grey and gloomy surroundings. We pretty soon forgot about the added hardship of the extra climb. As we approached the lake, we joked about experiencing the coldest swim along the PCT. Remembering the numbingly cold of Ray-Lakes in the Sierras, when I swam to the little island, I was not too fond to get in. When it started to rain again, our discussion stalled, and we thankfully passed up the foolish idea. 
The long grind down through the valley was tougher than expected. Snow has been dealing with a sore knee, and today it got extremely stiff, making it difficult for him to move down the mountain. With continuous rain for the majority of the afternoon it was cold and wet and miserable. We both tried our best to keep the spirits high, knowing we’d soon get to Holden Village, where there’d be coffee and a warm meal.
Around 1600 we made it into Holden Village. It trurns out to be a little community were people can rent a lodge and spend time close to the out-doors. After paying the fee for the dinner-buffet, we walked into the large communal restaurant and sat down to blissfully sip from our steaming mugs. Oh the joy!
Snow-White and I have been leapfrogging with the couple Pretty-Bird and Big-Gulp for the past couple of days, but I just got formerly acquainted with them today in the dining area. They have hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2014 and are a truly great couple. As we loaded up on unreasonably large plates of food from the buffet, we swapped stories with them, and I felt grateful to be warm and indoors. 
Unfortunately this wonderful evening, for me, eventually came to an end. By now, all the other hikers in our bubble had found their way into the restaurant of Holden Village (Dirt, Cookie, Red, Flow, Snow-White, Pretty-Bird and Big-Gulp).
I would be the only one setting out to hike the alternate. Sigh.
Another day of solitude awaited.
I grabbed my gear, put on my headlamp, and hiked out into the dark night. If I’d have known what was ahead of me, I might have changed my mind.
It would turn out to be one of the most grueling stretches I’ve hiked on all my time on trail…
Very soon after setting off, it started raining. The rain would continue to soak and cool me down during the night. I had to cover 6 miles to the first available campsite, but since I was now off the PCT I could not check this on my digital maps. I had to keep an good eye out and trust my covered mileage based on my time.
The trail wound up the mountain-side with infinite steep switchbacks. Through creeks and past soaking wet brush, through a burn-area and along waterfalls.
It was rough.
It was wet.
It was cold.
In the dark it kept raining and raining and raining. Time crept by at a snails-pace and I was starting to get worried. What if I would not find a campsite? What if I got too cold? I felt so very tired, and just wanted to make it into my tent as soon as possible.
Around 2200 I hauled myself onto the top of the ridge. It had been a ridiculously long and steep ascent. By now I was at such high elevation that the falling raindrops had turned into snowflakes. I found a very small somewhat suitable space, where I pitched my tent in the freezing cold. My puffy and beanie (both in which I always sleep on colder nights) were soaked. When I aimed my headlamp at my rain-pants, I learned that they had torn almost entirely in half, ripped at the seems. So that was a 70 dollars well spent. I had not been using them for more than 2 weeks…
I crawled into my sleeping bag and tried to warm up and tried to be happy I was in my shelter. My feet are absolutely battered from the fast-paced hiking and being drenched the majority of the day. I got some nice chafing blisters from my grimy socks rubbing my wet skin to bits. I tried to get comfortable while the winds, snow and rain were whipping my tent. However, this night would turn out to be one of my worst nights sleep thus far…
Captivated by a perfect view
Time stopped and I found my muse
Brighter than the morning sun
Flames burned until the night was done
My faith in love was born again
From the clouds you were Heaven sent
I could tell you were a different breed
From the way you looked at me
And there’s no place that I’d rather be
When I feel your teeth sink into me
I bleed a color that I’ve never seen
A beauty that makes me complete
You’re my white tiger, my white tiger!
White Tiger – Our Last Night
