Knifes Edge

Today was a day of extremes.
And a very, very long day too. Big Bro, Ratatouille, Bingo and I had agreed to hike the famous Knifes Edge section of the trail together today. The Knifes Edge is a very sharp ridge, at the high-point of today’s section, with daunting drops on both sides. Supposedly its one of the most amazing features of the PCT. A little after 0700 I was last to hike out, but soon caught up with the others. The trail rose above tree line, and since it was a perfectly clear day, the views were mind-blowing! Mount Adams stood tall and proud in the distance. We climbed higher and higher, until we got to a section which leveled out, and behold: An encounter with old friends!
In the sunshine, chilling in a nice grassy meadow with 360 views of Mt. Adams, Mt. St Helen and Mt. Rainier, we ran into Two Beers, Wizard and Nemo. They had flipped to Washington and were now hiking Sobo. It was amazing to see them again and catch up, and I gladly used the intermezzo to dry out my tent and sleeping bag. The whole set-up was close to perfect, with friends, amazing views, sunshine and laughter.
A very special moment.
After about an hour of lounging it the sun, it was time to say goodbyes. It was so wonderful to see the others again, but there were some serious miles to hike today. There was a fire-closure up ahead, which would make for a long detour off the PCT.
Benjamin Button, Big Bro and I left the others to start our climb up to the Knifes Edge.
Soon we found ourselves into a magical world of snow and rock. Towering above the clouds, we rose and rose, our views getting more spectacular by the minute. More than once I just had to stop to take in the sights presented from what appeared to be the top of the world. Breathtaking.
I understood why this is one of the most popular sections of the PCT.

It did not take long before we reached the high-point of the ridge, from where we would make our way down the jagged line of the Knifes Edge. In the distance we saw the trail drop into the clouds. Once again I was completely amazed by this true beauty, the crisp air and nothing but wide open space surrounding us.
I felt very, very much alive.
Completely in the moment I could not imagine any place on earth I’d rather be than where I was right now.

The ridge dove into the clouds, and unfortunately that was the end of the magnificent views. It will however be a memory that I’ll hold very dearly.
Big Bro and Benjamin Button hiked ahead, and I would not see them the remainder of the day. There were two alternates to the fire-closure, and their choice of route would take them into the village of Packwood, whereas mine would take me straight back to the PCT (the official alternate). The route I chose was longer, and more strenuous, but it would take me straight to the store where I had my packages waiting.

And thus I started with what would be the most brutal part of the day.
Without my interactive maps (since I was now off the PCT), I could only track my progress based on a photograph. This photo displayed a map of the alternates. The terrain was incredibly rough, the trail very, very steep in places, with lots of rocks, tree-roots and two-foot drop sections. Because I had no altitude profile either, I did not know whether or not I’d be climbing or descending.

It turned out to be a lot more of climbing.

Just before what would be the last long climb (which of course I was unaware of) I caught some great views of Rainier, which was uplifting for a moment. But it was quickly followed by me gritting my teeth again as I was stumbling my way down steep, rocky trail. I grew more and more frustrated, because it was getting dark now, and the batteries of my headlamp were almost drained. Using them would be pretty much useless… I had to get back on the PCT as soon as possible.

Around 1800 I gladly caught up with Dorita and Maple, who agreed that it was indeed a very mean stretch. Just before it was getting too dark to see where we were going, I made it out the forest, after a cruel steep climb up to the highway. It was 1930, and I thought my chances of catching a hitch would be minimal. Sigh. Time for a 3-mile road-walk in the dark…

For every car or truck that came blazing past, I stepped outside the guardrail, which was very tedious to say the least. To top it off, when stepping over the metal frame at some point I made an uncoordinated move and busted my knee into the rail. It hurt like crazy, and as I stood there panting and cursing, my thoughts went to the course of today. Once again I was amazed by the fact that on the same day that you’ve experienced such an unbelievable high, it can turn around completely, to feeling pretty miserable.
I hiked on, and fortunately my knee held out okay. And then, as has before, the laughter came.
Laughter about the ridiculousness of the whole situation. Here I am, at the other end of the world, hiking along a pitch-black highway at night, somewhere in the wilderness of Washington.
Only along the PCT…

I arrived at the gas-station/store around 2030, quickly found the designated patch of grass where they allowed hikers to camp, set up my tent and crawled into my sleeping bag.
As I mentioned earlier, truly a day of extremes it was.

I wonder how clear it must look from there to here
No obstruction, this selfish corruption
All in this atmosphere
No fear, less tears, only time to catch my breath
I fail to inhale
Your love constricts my chest
Confusion blinded me, mental and physically
And it’s because of you that now I can see
So now I can run. I follow the Son and ride on to Zion
And dance this last song of freedom
But only time will tell, if it’s truly for real
Can’t change your mind, all I know this is what I feel
Whether I’m wrong or right, please keep my life in sight
And never take you eyes off me

As I look up to the sky today
Well I can see you looking down on me
It brings a smile to my face again
Satellite

Satellite – P.O.D.