Lands of Fire

Early start because of my intention to hike another 30 today. If only I’d knew then what I know now, and how much I really needed that extra time..
It was still dark when I got up, but by the time I started hiking the sun was out. It was cool, but not as crazy cold as it has been the past couple of nights. I passed the camp of 4 north-bounders, seemingly all still sound asleep. In the distance I could make out the features of Middle Sister.

The trail weaved around its base and that’s when I should have started sensing trouble on the way. But I didn’t realise at the time what I was in for… Slowly but steadily the landscape started to change. There were some real beautiful scenic vistas. Volcanic rocks started to appear scattered along and on the trail.
I took a couple of standing breaks while chatting with some people hiking South-Bound, still unaware at the fact that I could really use that time I was spending standing there. Around noon I encountered the first lava-field, a chaotic solidified ocean of volcanic debris. Jagged, sharp and countless rocks cutting at my feet from all sides. Slippery dusty slopes and endless switch-backs tiring me on even the mild climbs. As I realized later, these patches of land where fire once fiercely ruled, would cut my average mileage in half. I made very poor progress. Fields of Obsidian, clear skies and rugged features of the volcanic landscapes with the large peaks looming on the horizon, did make for amazing views however.
I noticed time slipping through my fingers, but plowed on. Fully exposed the majority of the day, it was hot too. The scorching temperatures in tune with a landscape touched by fire. And where usually I’m hiking and not especially paying a lot of attention to the surface of the trail, now I needed to be fully focused on my footing for not risking rolling or breaking my ankles.

During the second half of the afternoon I would encounter the most strenuous part of my crusade; a 2 mile climb through nothing put pumice. A lava-field eroded to a razor-sharp ascent, straight out of hell it seemed. There were many times when my mind went to Frodo and Sam, climbing up the slopes of Mount Doom. I found renewed respect for their hardship as I was inching my way up the sides of this debris-field. At least I was battling through the black-green rocks against a background of blue skies, whereas they were surrounded by darkness.
Finally I made it to the top, and let out a cheer of relief. But there was nobody there to hear me; I was alone. And there were no eagles to pick me up and bring me down…

At this stage I knew that I would not make it to my designated camp-spot in time. The struggle through the pumice had made me lose significant time. Already I was not looking forward to night-hiking the last section; the batteries of my headlamp are almost dead. I was anticipating having to peer through the darkness guided by a very dim light. The descent after the brutal climb made for easier terrain through a burned area. There were still plenty of rocks here and there so I had to keep focus, but at least I could now shift gears and cover more ground.The final 4 miles I was glad to hike through forest again on smooth, even trail. As I witnessed a beautiful sunset, while hiking along the ridge, I played music and regardless of my fatigue and aching feet was banging out the last miles. As predicted I had to rely on my poor headlight (I’m buying plenty spare batteries in town for sure), and was worried it would die on me during the evening. Fortunately I made it to the Youth-Camp near Big Lake before they completely ran out.
Very relieved I’d made it to the PCT-hiker building at the campground I devoured my meal I’d been cold-soaking earlier and settled down.
31 miles through devious terrain. It had been beautiful, but immensely taxing too.
The PCT once more had pulled an unexpected challenge out of its hat. Does it ever get easy?

If this is to end in fire
Then we should all burn together
Watch the flames climb high into the night
Calling out for the rope, sent by and we will
Watch the flames burn on and on the mountain side

And if we should die tonight
Then we should all die together
Raise a glass of wine for the last time
Calling out for the rope
Prepare as we will
Watch the flames burn on and on the mountain side
Desolation comes upon the sky

Now I see fire, inside the mountain
I see fire, burning the trees
And I see fire, hollowing souls
And I see fire, blood in the breeze
And I hope that you’ll remember me

I see Fire – Ed Sheeran