A Rough Stretch

Pffff, heavy day. It started out with less than stellar views this morning, because the smoke from (yesterdays?) fire shrouded the entire valley in a thick fog, making for zero visibility. During the night I even closed my storm-doors, because the heavy smoke-smell woke me up. To be fair I don’t know if closing the tent-flaps made any difference, but at least it established minor peace of mind. In terms of terrain today was supposed to be relatively easy. It started with a small but steep climb up, after which I would drop down into the valley. Followed by a very gradual 8 mile climb, which would drop down just as gradual some 8 miles again. I aimed to camp after doing the full decent, putting me somewhere between 20 and 23 miles.

Just like yesterday, I didn’t meet any North-bound hikers today, so I was hiking by myself again for the 3rd day in a row. At this stage the solitude became less and less enjoyable, I’m really looking forward to seeing some (familiar) faces for longer than just the 5 minute chats with people passing by. The mosquito’s didn’t make the stretch any easier, and despite the sun shining brightly causing me to sweat like crazy, I kept my long pants on for almost the entire day.

Podcasts, tunes and continuing listening to my audiobook kept me going through the day. I took many mini-breaks and since I once again carried out way too much food from Yosemite, I tried to eat as much as possible to keep the engine going. The smoke took away some of the usually clear and colorful features of the Sierras we’ve been enjoying so much before. Therefor I didn’t mind being immersed in the podcasts and audiobook for most of the day, discarding the (somewhat less spectacular) views for a change.

When I started on the long and gradual ascent I decided to kick my pace up a notch. The trail was winding through meadows and forests, and for the most I’d left the boulders and rocky terrain behind me. I told myself was not allowed to quit hiking until I’d booked it for at least an hour at a significantly higher pace. And so began the 20-song countdown from my rock-playlist. It was rough, but my legs did not disappoint and after tune number 20, I rolled out my tyvek and collapsed in the middle of a grassy spot between the trees. I kept my bug-net and long pants on, and set my alarm for a 20-minute afternoon doze.

Today I met one South-bound hiker on the way, who expressed his concern about the fire. Apparently he’d heard that it originated somewhere in Yosemite, and that they even closed off traffic into the valley. This made me think that we possibly had been very lucky to have gotten in and out of Yosemite when we did. That I was now hiking away from the smoke (and thus the fire) was also beneficial to my progress. The lack of other hikers along the trail clearly emphasizes my getaway from ‘the bubble’. I wonder how far Photo-op is behind, and how far Jukebox and Pops are ahead of me. At the top of the gradual 8 mile climb I reached the lake where I planned on taking an afternoon swim. I got comfortable on a massive grey-white boulder, and scanned the bank to find out there was no one else around. Once again I felt like I had the entire lake to myself. Alone in the mountains. After the refreshing dip I laid back on the granite, let the sun dry my skin and enjoyed giving my feet some rest. I wanted to get to camp no later than 1930, which gave me 4 hours to finish the final 8 miles. This should be plenty, even though my feet have had to endure quite a bit after this strenuous rocky terrain and the back-to-back 20-mile days.
When booking it downhill through the forest, deeply invested in my audiobook, I almost forgot about the major milestone I’d hit today. One-thousand-miles! I stopped to take photo’s, and I won’t lie; I was pretty bummed that I had no-one to celebrate with today. I’ve discussed our progress plenty with other hikers before, and the general consensus is one of awe for our physical effort. One thousand miles... Ain’t that something. Even though I was alone, I managed a smile, before the mosquito’s drove me nuts again and I decided to push on towards the campsite.


The last miles I hiked in a bit of a daze, zoning out because I felt properly shattered. At the last small stream-crossing I filled my water bottle for the night and could hardly find the strength to pitch my tent. As soon as I got it done, I inflated my pad, got inside and just lay there for a while, staring at the roof of my tent. I sorted out my stuff and had dinner. After which I spend some time trying to get rid of the many bugs that somehow got in my tent. And that’s when I noticed… Above one of my zippers I discovered a big tear in the protective mesh. I cursed out loud and was pretty bummed out, since I had no idea how it’d happened. Opting to sleep with my bug-net on for the night, and giving the bugs free reign, I wanted to get ready for sleep. Then I took a moment to think about this, and realized that this is the stuff that happens on trail; with the extensive use of our gear in rough terrain, things are bound to break/tear at some point. Still it sucks because I love my tent, and did not foresee this happening at this stage of the hike. I got out some leuko-tape and managed to patch up the tear as well as I could under these circumstances. Should keep the mosquito’s out for the night.
I’m glad that tomorrow I will get off trail at Kennedy Meadows North (a ranch with a shop, and accommodation with showers, laundry and charging stations), so that I can see if I can patch up my tent to a more satisfying level.

It’s been a pretty tough day, both mentally and physically, and I’m happy to get to town tomorrow. I’m hoping to see some familiar faces there. Now I’m officially wiped and look forward to a good (and hopefully bug-free) nights sleep. Oh the challenges of the trail…

I defy the odds,
Dead-end cul-de-sacs,
gritted streets that feel like jail
A maze of palm-trees led to nowhere,
built my own boat so I could sail
They said: “you won’t make it,
You’re just wasting all your time”
But I’ve got, no patience
And hate to stand in lines

Oh-Oohooh
I’m ready and I’m willing to take you on
Oohooh
I’m ready and I’m willing to lose it all
I’m ready, I’m ready…

Ready and Willing – New Found Glory