Big, big day!
As discussed the night before, we wanted to try and hitch out relatively early into the valley of Yosemite. We hoped getting there early would help improve our chances of getting a campsite and possibly a group-permit to hike the Half-Dome trail. Turtle, Bird-man, Photo-op and I were ready to hitch out some time after 0700. Within the half hour an RV pulled over, saying that they had room to take two of us in. Photo-op and Turtle jumped in, while Bird-man and I kept trying our luck. Within 10 minutes another car stopped, and a very friendly couple from Seattle took us in. As we drove into the direction of the valley, it wouldn’t be long before the features of the environment started to change dramatically. The gigantic and typical white-grey granite rock features of Yosemite soon started to surround us.
We stopped every few miles to get out of the car and take photo’s. And not before long, we’d get the first glimpse of Half-Dome! It was early in the day, but we were already so excited for what Yosemite held in store for us! 
We continued cruising into the valley, and after an hours drive we got to the valley-floor. And then, there she was. Standing tall and fierce in the distance; the 3000 feet wall of El Capitan. I was absolutely amazed. It is gigantic. Here the rock-climbing pioneers Royal Robbins & Warren Harding established the foundations of big-wall climbing, exploring the realms of the vertical as they inched their way up the features of El-Capitan and Half-dome some 60 years ago. I’ve seen so much footage of people climbing here, and to stand so close to the base of this iconic geological marvel now, to see its magnificence for myself, felt great. It absolutely blows my mind that Alex Honnold (king of the valley), in June 2017, became the first person to ever free-solo (climbing without rope) El Cap. It took him a little under 4 hours. Madness…
To anyone who would like to learn some more about the origin of big-wall climbing here in Yosemite, I highly recommend them to watch the documentary “Valley Uprising”. It’s a climbing-docu about the establishment of the first big climbing routes on Yosemite’s big walls. With Half-Dome and El Cap as its two very important rock features, it describes the evolution of the rock climbing sport throughout the years and the launch of the early-day climbers to stardom. The footage is amazing, a real work of art. It is one of my favorites.
Bird-man and I were dropped off in the valley and contacted Photo-op and Turtle to figure out what the plan for the rest of the day was. We found them at a coffee shop, and pretty soon learned that unless we wanted to stay for 3 days total, we’d probably would not be able to get to summit Half-Dome; the application process for the permit takes a couple days. That was unfortunate, but there were plenty of other hikers trickling into the valley now, and a lot ideas as to how to enjoy Yosemite were suggested. A new plan started to take shape. The majority of the campsites in Yosemite at this time of year are fully booked, but there was one campsite at Upper Pines, that allows backpackers to drop in unannounced and camp there if there are free slots available. Some hikers were already set up there, and they told us there were plenty of spots left. So after a coffee, we packed up and headed over there taking the shuttle which runs often and stops pretty much everywhere throughout the valley. After setting up camp, we hike out to do the Upper Yosemite Falls trail. A trail that would take us out the valley and on top of the ridge, with supposedly spectacular views.
We got a group of 9 hikers gathered (Bird-man, Rocket, Turtle, Photo-op, Snow-White, Jay, Coach and Midnight and I), and as we hiked out, all buzzing with excitement I found it very special that on what everybody considers to be a ‘free’ day (no PCT miles that would be hiked), everybody still wants to go out and do something. Especially since that ‘something’ is more hiking. I guess we’re just all explorers at heart. Everybody was so cheerful because we were carrying almost empty packs, bringing only snacks and some water. It felt so light and free and great!
We started the hike at the base of the valley, but were gaining altitude quickly. The initial stretch of the trail would be facing the Yosemite Falls, and the North-West face of Half-Dome for a large part of the trip. Early on the views were already amazing. Our anticipation was building rapidly.
Without our heavy packs we were making steady process on the trail and were climbing fast. I loved feeling what my body is capable of nowadays. It was a cloudy and humid day, so we were sweating like crazy. I felt my breathing get heavier as we ascended, but my legs are strong now and they just wouldn’t stop. It’s very encouraging knowing that several weeks back I would have taken dozens of breaks on this terrain. Now I could just keep going and going and going.
The air was thick with the humid air and excitement for the amazing sight of Half-Dome’s majestic features. It’s a view I can never get enough of. The gigantic walls of the valley surrounded us on all sides, and I what I’d expected about Yosemite was pretty much established from the moment I set foot outside of the car the first time; this is a very special place.
The 3.5 mile hike up to the Yosemite Falls took us less than 2 hours, during which we gained between 2500 and 3000 feet of elevation. There was a beautiful view-point, where we strayed, exploring the ridge, to find one of the most incredible surprises imaginable at the origin of the falls; a basin of water, tucked away into the sharp features of the granite. The pool of water was overlooking the valley and accessible from trail.
Within moments, all the crazy thru-hikers got into the water, hooting and cheering, captured in amazement and joy that after what had been such an amazing hike already, we were rewarded with this gem. The water was much less cold than expected from a melt-water stream at this elevation, and the post-hike swim felt like the greatest reward. We were having a blast.
We snacked some food before heading out again, because the ridge next to the Yosemite falls pool secluded the view of Half-Dome from our sights. Time for the final push to climb up to the top of the valley-ridge. When we crested the ridge, all the way up to the highest point in our close vicinity, Half-Dome presented itself in all its beauty. I was filled with awe.
Standing on the ridge, gazing down from the soaring heights into the valley, with Half-Dome rising tall in the distance, I realized that this is probably one of the most incredible places I’ve ever been in my life. Since deciding to come out to hike the PCT, I had always hoped to make it to the Yosemite valley. But hiking 950 miles is a long way, and a lot can happen during those miles… Now I was here, and I was looking out to the exact view that has been the screensaver to my laptop for so long. I felt fulfilled and was so happy!
After basking in the overwhelming beauty that surrounded us, unfortunately it became time to hike down again; I could have stayed there all day. Completely in the moment, fully aware of how lucky I was to be out here, I looked over my shoulder once more before descending. And I felt just so very grateful.
When hiking down, I managed to find myself in the gap between two groups, so I was hiking downhill alone for the larger part of the trail. When made my way down off the trail around 1900 I hopped onto the valley-shuttle and drove towards Half-Dome Village, ready to get some food. As I was standing in line to order a hamburger, Snow-white and Rocket showed up. I took quickly their order too, and we brought our food over to enjoy it at the campsite. All throughout the day, the phrase ‘What a day’ was uttered by the many hikers reveled in the shared experience of the day. Around 2130 we took another stroll back to the village once more, to indulge in a massive bowl of ice-cream. Later, back at the campsite we played some games before finally heading into our tents around midnight.
To me it seemed this day lasted the length of 3 days. It was an experience that surpassed all my expectations, and to share it with such like-minded people is such a wonderful thing. What a day.
What an amazing day!
And do you ever feel like you’re alone?
And do you ever wish to be unknown?
I can say that I have…
I can say that I have…
And do you ever feel things here aren’t right?
And do you ever feel the time slip by?
I can say that I have…
I can say that I have…
So hear this please
Watch as your heart beats on endlessly
And look for the stars as the sun goes down
Each breath that you take has a thunderous sound
Everything, everything’s magic…
Everything’s Magic – Angels & Airwaves
