I left camp a little after six. Time for the final 7 miles downhill to reach the desert-floor again. My hip-joints were doing fine, the nights sleep really helped. So far, so good. I was only hiking for an hour but it was already getting warm at 0700. Today would definitely be a hot day.
A little past seven I hit the 200-mile marker! Hurray. Unfortunately there was nobody around to celebrate with. Well, except for the lizards, bugs and dust-bunnies of course.
Pretty soon after that it went downhill. And this time I am not talking about the trail. Out of the blue (well not really, I’ve been doing some pretty heavy exercise the past weeks) my left ankle started playing up. This was a ‘new’ form of strain, and it got me worried. It was still very early in the day, and there were many desert miles left. Nothing to do but be mindful of my stepping and steadily pace forward. At the bottom of the descent I got to rest my legs for a bit, grab some food and refill on water. That water would have to last me the rest of the day (13 somewhat miles).
I was happy the downhill part was now over, because hiking downhill puts the most stress on my ankle. The PCT however had some more tricks up her sleeve to put my spirit to the test. The next section would be to cross the desert-floor, before heading back up into the mountains on the other side. It was a sand-box. A grueling crossing of a long soft sand stretch, as if walking on a beach. My feet were not happy. Neither was I. We were in one of the lowest elevation points on the PCT, and it was burning up.
Around noon we’d made it across the seemingly endless grind through the sandbox. Underneath the bridge, we welcomed the shade and learned there was trail magic! I brushed the sweat of my face, and found joy in a cool soda. During the battle against the terrain, I’d decided I would tape up my ankle for the second half of the day. The strain was not getting worse, but not getting better either. So time to apply some first-aid-physio-therapy.
I’d already experienced my ankle was really slowing me down today, having the majority of the hikers speed out ahead of me. This made me uncomfortable, so I wanted to keep moving, knowing my progress would not be what it has been during the past days. I set out again around 1330. The elastic band-thingy I had quasi-professionally applied to relieve the pressure on my ankle helped. Somewhat. Opportunistic I continued along the desert-floor. But it was still crazy hot, and I was worried about the pain getting worse. There were not many good campsites during the following miles of this stretch, so I knew I had to keep hiking till days end.
I wondered if there could be something out there that could make this afternoon worse. Let’s see.. Why not throw the looming threat of rabid dogs, waiting to attack poor, exhausted hikers, in the mix? Check.
Somewhere around 1500 I hit my days breaking point. I was tired. I was worried. I was sad… But then, as has happened before, I felt relieve again. I remembered a conversation me and my brother had had on the phone a couple of days ago, and it gave me strength. I started feeling lighter again. And humbled. Humbled by the sheer power of the desert. Realizing we’re only human, and the mother nature is fierce, and not to be underestimated.
As I was pacing forward slow but steady, I was heating up in my sun-hoodie. I hiked towards a crossing with a sign that read; “shade and water, this way”. Because I was loaded up to maximum capacity with water I almost decided to hike past it. But then I told myself, I could really use another break, and it might as well be in the shade. And behold; again, the trail provides. That split-second decision to take a break there, would turn my afternoon around. Already chilling in the shade I found Rebecca, enjoying ice-cold water from a cooler. Catching my breath, cooling down in the shade, and finding somebody to have a chat with, lifted my spirits. I soon felt ready for the final push of the day. We discussed a possible camp-site. There was a wild-life preserve, which had gotten some amazing reviews. On our interactive maps app, it was described by some as ‘a hiker-friendly oasis in the desert’. There would even be flowing water, and artificial pools to soak our tired feet in! The last miles were tough, but the pain in my ankle was still not getting worse. So that was something.
When we finally arrived at the wildlife preserve, just the views of the flowing water made us burst out in laughter. Oh the pure joy. When we walked onto the campsite area, everything was green, soft, idyllic and wonderful. The cool soaking pools a godsend.
When I was back in Manchester, I often told people with a smile on my face, that hiking through the desert would be brutal. I tried to envision it, the hardship. The heat, the dust, the mental struggle. In a way I got some of it right. In many ways I did not. Today was a true desert-day. And I learned the desert is not to be taken lightly. Tomorrow we’ll see how the ankle fares, but for now I’m just happy with the rewards enjoyed after a very hot, long, tough and exhausting day.
So far apart, but here in my heart
I’m waiting
Never enough, even when it gets rough
I’ll be there
We’ve been here before
Get up off the floor
Breaking down
I see in your eyes
A way to get by
I’m holding, holding, holding, holding, holding
Please….
You got me over my head
Please…
You got me over my head
Help me out
Help me out
Help me out
Volca – Born Rivals
